Knife Making Kits Review

DIY Knife Making - Terran Marks
*Made using our DIY Knife Making guide available below.

Brown County Forge’s Knife Making Kits Review

In general, kits are a fun way to start on a new hobby.

They are generally inexpensive and have easy-to-follow instructions.

Whether it’s beer-making or open fire cooking, many kits meet or exceed expectations.

One type of kit that has become pretty popular in recent years is the “knife making” kit.

One kit in particular seems to stand out above the rest:

Man Crates Knife Making Kit

In today’s post, I’m going to break down what’s bad and what’s good about Man Crates’ Kit (and other kits like it).

“Not Knife Making” – Customer Review on Man Crates’ website

If you go through the reviews on Man Crates Knife Making Kit, you will see a cascade of five stars.

Many customers had a great time putting handles on their knives.

BUT that’s really all it is.

The steel portion of the knife is already shaped, sharpened, and heat treated.

All you need to do to “make your knife” is attach your wood pieces and pins with epoxy and shape the handle.

From that review above:

“This isn’t a knife making kit, it’s simply a knife handle making kit. The blade comes already shaped and sharpened. Just not as cool.”

You should be the final judge of the quality and value of the kit, but at $149.99 it just doesn’t seem worth it (in this professional’s opinion).

Note: Their Folding Knife Kit seems to fair better in terms of Reviews. This could be due to the added skill involved in attaching the handle and dealing with the locking mechanism. Folders are more complicated than fixed blades.

Other Knife “Making” Kits

Jantz Supply in Oklahoma also offers knife making kits through their website: knifemaking.com.

Most of their kits range from $5.95 to $19.95 with a few rare exceptions over $100.

These are usually large specialty blades. Example: Their 13-inch long Carina Chef blade in V10 Damascus.

With that knife kit, you’re paying for the quality of the material more than anything.

But again, if you want to actually make your knife from start to finish, this is a Knife Handling Kit.

Nothing against Jantz Supply and their well-crafted products. They have been a leader in knifemaking education and supplies since the mid-1960s.

How to Make Legitimate Knives from Start to Finish

Making a Stock Removal Knife - Brown County Forge

In DIY Knife Making – Bushcraft Knives, we start by selecting our steel by carbon content. All information about where to find the right steel is provided.

Scandinavian Grind Bushcraft Knives - DIY Knife Making

Together, with step-by-step instructions, we go through how to cut, grind, shape, and sharpen a knife blank.

Bush Knife Tempering - DIY Knife Making

We’ll go over how to properly heat treat knives – Hardening AND Tempering.

Using a Rasp to Make a Knife Handle - DIY Knife Making

You’ll learn the necessary steps to make handle scales and attach them with an easy method.

DIY Knife Making - Terran Marks

And, if you’ve followed the guide from front to back, you will end up with a knife you made from start to finish.

Over the course of 108 pages, 60 Full-Color photos, multiple examples, and a printable knife template, you will gain the ability to truly make a knife (Not limited to bushcraft knives. Use this guide with any knife template.)

It’s available for 94% less than Man Crates’ Knife Making Kit. And you’ll have the added opportunity to find your own steel, your own wood, and make your own knife still for less than a kit.

Pick up your digital copy here:

DIY Knife Making – Bushcraft Knives

DIY Knife Making - Bushcraft Knives - Terran Marks

Want to Learn to Forge Knives, too?

I built an complete online course dedicated to blacksmithing and forging knives. (The DIY Knife Making book is included in the course.)

You can preview the curriculum here for free:

DIY Blacksmithing Online Course

You’ll learn the fundamentals of blacksmithing and how to set up your own knife making shop in easy to follow video lessons.

 

Forging a Twisted Railroad Spike Knife

Twisted Railroad Spike Knife - Brown County Forge

Blacksmith Project Breakdown: Twisted Railroad Spike Knife

Students forge railroad spike knives in class every weekend at Brown County Forge.

From time to time they opt for the twisted handle look above.

In this post I’ll go through the steps it takes to forge a twisted railroad spike knife.

The Basic Steps:

  1. Forge the blade.
  2. Twist the handle.
  3. Clean up the knife profile and grind the rough bevel.
  4. Harden.
  5. Temper.
  6. Final polish and sharpen.

Step One: Forging the Railroad Spike Knife Blade

Railroad Spike Knife - Brown County Forge

Get the railroad spike up to a nice glowing yellow-orange color.

Start hammering half way up the spike and out towards the tip.

By starting halfway up you’ll leave enough room for a handle and have plenty of material for your blade.

Depending on your hammering stamina and hand-eye coordination, this thinning process can take some time.

Usually it will take anywhere from 45 minutes to 2 hours for a beginner.

Step Two: Twist the Handle

Railroad Spike Knife Close Up - Brown County Forge

Twists look great, but I’ll let you in on a secret:

They are one of the easiest techniques to do.

Due to the thickness of the material, we need to do one quarter-turn per heat for the railroad spike twist.

For each quarter-turn you will put the heated spike into your viseĀ blade down.

You then grab just under the head of the spike with a pair of locking vise grips.

Keep the grips level and pull toward you for one quarter-turn.

Reheat and repeat.

Step Three: Set Aside to Cool and Then Grind the Profile

Now that you have your basic knife shape forged and the twist made, set it aside to cool completely.

When it’s cool to the touch (about 20 minutes later), use a hand file, a bench grinder, or an angle grinder to clean up your rough edges.

You can also start cleaning up and polishing the flats of the blade.

As you do this you will see just how consistent your hammer blows were.

Your goal at this stage is to get smooth, clean lines and the final shape of the knife.

If you want a bowie railroad spike knife, you will grind in the bowie anatomy.

If you’re looking for more of a skinner, you will grind in skinner lines.

The grinder is your friend. =]

Step Four: Hardening

Hardening a Blade - Brown County Forge

Now it’s time to reheat the knife to just above cherry red.

The reason this color is important is that it’s our visual signal that the knife is approaching non-magnetic.

We want it to lose its magnetism before we harden it.

This is an additional sign that the molecules in the metal are aligned properly for hardening.

(Want to see this in action? You can sign up for Online Classes here or take a class in person!)

When it’s hot enough and nonmagnetic, we quench it in oil for a count of eight seconds.

Then the knife is set aside to cool.

Side Note: We use vegetable oil as our quenchant in the shop. It does a great job and isn’t as toxic as burning motor oil.

Step Five: Temper

Tempering Colors In Steel - Brown County Forge

After cooling, the knife is ready for a polish to help the silver of the blade shine through.

This is necessary because we need to see the temper colors as we apply low level heat to the blade.

To temper we use a propane torch and apply heat to the spine of the knife.

Making steady passes across the spine, we gradually heat the blade up.

When it is a light straw color (the color all the way to the left in the photo above), we quench it once again in the vegetable oil.

(Click here for a full breakdown of tempering)

Step Six – Polish and Sharpen

You don’t have to leave the temper color on your blade.

When it’s completely cooled down, you can take a piece of sandpaper and sand it back to silver.

Some people like the “Man With the Golden Knife” look, but it’s up to you (bad James Bond reference).

Now it’s time to put the final edge on your twisted railroad spike knife.

I prefer to use a 10-inch Single Cut Hand File.

If you have experience using whetstones you should use what you’re comfortable with.

Proper sharpening with hand file involves these five things:

  1. Only file with forward motions. NEVER saw back and forth.
  2. Start with a steep angle to make your two bevel sides meet. Then go shallower for your final edge.
  3. If the file is screeching, adjust your file’s horizontal orientation.
  4. If you over-sharpen it’s not the end of the world. Knock the burr down with light strokes against the grain.
  5. Test carefully as you work. Don’t slide up and down the blade to test. Lightly pull across the blade edge to feel for sharpness.

If you’ve never done it before it will take some time to get good.

All of this is a patience game.

Thanks for Reading!

Twisted Railroad Spike Knife - Brown County Forge